Tracing the Steps of Pushkin’s Pskov Estate in Autumn

Pushkinskiye Gory is a town in the central part of Pskov region. It is famous for its estates, Mikhailovskoye, Petrovskoye, and Trigorskoye, which were significant places in the life of Alexander Pushkin, a famed Russian poet. In the middle of autumn, I took on a weekend endeavor to visit one of the finest places in Pskov Oblast and a natural reserve in Russia that boasts a gorgeous golden autumn. The journey was rough-edged, but my time there changed my perspective of the season. In this blog, I will describe my journey and impressions — and whether I could see autumn through Pushkin’s eyes.

Photo courtesy of the author

The golden leaves twinkling through the air, The misty rain that is mildly wet, yet not heavy enough to drench wet, fresh apples at a hand's reach, the autumn breeze in my hair, that’s the flare with which I walked in Pushkin's trail

Left: statue of Svyatogorsky Timofey holding the Hodegetria Icon, right: a statue of Alexander Pushkin
Left: statue of Svyatogorsky Timofey holding the Hodegetria Icon, right: a statue of Alexander Pushkin

Reaching Pushkinskiye Gory from St. Petersburg via public transport is a mild challenge. A midnight train to Pskov, an early morning bus to the town and a lot of walking. Yet, this way you reach the town right in time for the sunrise.

Early in the morning, I walked around the quiet city, spotting Soviet-designed houses, apple trees, cats, and the autumn sights all around. Through the silent market, along the local school, and a visit to the district administration as tradition, I arrived at the huge white marble building of the Дом Культуры (House of Culture) and the Pushkin Museum-Reserve administration building. This can be called the main square of the city. Here, they post handwritten notices, updates on the museum-reserve, and more navigation information.

My first objective was to reach the Holy Assumption Monastery which houses the Hodegetria icon, sections of which are contemporaries of Ivan the Terrible (who commissioned the building of this monastery in the 1500s). Notably, this monastery is quite small and is one of the few that is located on a hill. It has short stone walls like in fortresses and of course the onion-like domes on the top of the church. Yet, on top of the cliff, the area around the church has one more landmark, somewhat of a literary treasure to many Russians — the grave of poet Alexander Pushkin. Sadly, due to reconstruction and maintenance work, my pictures couldn’t capture the full details. Here is a peek!

Left: the steps leading to the Holy Assumption Monastery; Right: the grave of Pushkin under maintenance beside the main building of the Monastery
Left: the steps leading to the Holy Assumption Monastery; Right: the grave of Pushkin under maintenance beside the main building of the Monastery

On my way down, I warmed up with a cup of "Sbiten" (a hot drink consisting of a concentrated syrup made from spices, herbs, and honey — delicious) and headed towards the central road of the town (Pushkinskaya Street). To my surprise, I discovered that a huge town market was organized on this day, with all kinds of performances and stalls with local produce (a seasonal yarmarka). I stepped right in the middle of it, admiring all the local apples, berries, veggies, and dairy around me. There, I picked up a few handmade souvenirs, some raspberries, and fresh bread. Having chatted with locals at the market, I also learned that the produce of Pushkinskiye Gory is regarded very highly.

A collage of scenes at the Seasonal Yarmarka on Pushkinskaya Street. Top: a decoration of the Yarmarka photo arch; top left: berries and apples for sale; top right: hunting and fishing gear for sale; bottom right: a woman purchasing smoked sausages; bottom right: various flowers on display.
A collage of scenes at the Seasonal Yarmarka on Pushkinskaya Street. Top: a decoration of the Yarmarka photo arch; top left: berries and apples for sale; top right: hunting and fishing gear for sale; bottom right: a woman purchasing smoked sausages; bottom right: various flowers on display.

From the market, I headed to the Tobolonets tourist and bike rental center. There, I met the owners, who kindly told me about the bike trails and paths to follow to visit all the must-sees around. After a hearty meal, I got on my bike to reach my first stop — a 17th-century church (hosting the Kazanskaya Icon) with an iconic blue exterior. From there, I headed to the Trigorskoye estate, located 7 km away. I had to cycle down a hill, as the breeze was fresh and the view was just gorgeous. I felt like a child with the wind in my hair! Along the way, I stopped many times to capture this wonderful landscape on my camera.

The 17th Century Church housing the Lady of Kazan Icon
The 17th Century Church housing the Lady of Kazan Icon
A view of lake Kamenets from a top of a hill on the way to the Trigorskoye estate
A view of lake Kamenets from a top of a hill on the way to the Trigorskoye estate

The Trigorskoye estate was called Pushkin’s second home after he was exiled. Inside the main building, there are many items on display dating from the time or restorations to look the part, pianos, portraits of Pushkin and his contemporaries, the poet’s library, and even a samovar. A notable part of the estate is an English-style park that inspired some of the poet’s works, with a 200-year-old sentinel oak tree in a picture-perfect location.

A view of the central mansion of the Trigorskoye estate
A view of the central mansion of the Trigorskoye estate

After walking through the estate and the park, I was off to the next estate, Mikhailovskoye, which is located around 5 km from Trigorskoye and passes through the ancient settlement of Savkino located on the hilltop across the Sorot River.

A view of the Sorot River from Savkino settlement. In the distance, it is possible to see a windmill and the Mikhailovskoye estate
A view of the Sorot River from Savkino settlement. In the distance, it is possible to see a windmill and the Mikhailovskoye estate

The settlement has a natural fortification in the form of a moat that passed through the previously existing river bed. There is also a fabulous view of the Sorot River, the Malanets and Kuchane lakes and the Mikhailovskoye reserve. Tranquility would be one word to describe the place, with the mild swooshing noise of the water flowing, tender leaves crackling, and the distant smell of wet clay. It wasn’t until I reached the Mikhailovskoye mansion that I found out that Savkino was Pushkin’s favorite place — he offered the landowners to purchase the land and built a cabin for himself there.

Top: the mansion of Mikhailovskoye estate with a staircase leading up top; bottom: the view from the baseline of the mansion connecting Sorot river to Lake Kuchane.
Top: the mansion of Mikhailovskoye estate with a staircase leading up top; bottom: the view from the baseline of the mansion connecting Sorot river to Lake Kuchane.

An interesting touch at Mikhaylovskoye is the Easter eggs that the museum officials have planted across the grounds, referencing the places and characters of Pushkin’s works. The Mikhailovskoye mansion can be considered a gem: not only does it consist of Pushkin’s study and the main family room, but the doors lead to a porch overlooking the sunset by the Savka peak, the Sorot river flowing across and the blossom of trees further through the river banks. One can only imagine the beauty of the place back in the day — combined with a cup of tea and German strawberry strudel (one of Pushkin’s favorite desserts).

Top left & rIght: Easter eggs placed across the estate grounds depicting parts of Pushkin's works. Bottom: A replica of the kitchen at the Mikhailovskoye estate
Top left & rIght: Easter eggs placed across the estate grounds depicting parts of Pushkin's works. Bottom: A replica of the kitchen at the Mikhailovskoye estate

As I completed my walk in the estate’s park, the time was nearing 6 pm. I biked back to Tobolonets tourist centrer for some dinner. My accommodation for the night was a tent on the center’s premises on the bank of the river Kuchane. The few hours of the night sky were splendid, the stars were glimmering, and their reflection lit up the lake.

A view of my tent surrounded by Birch trees at the Tobolonets camping grounds (early morning)
A view of my tent surrounded by Birch trees at the Tobolonets camping grounds (early morning)

Waking up rested, I was ready for my second day in Pushkinskiye Gory. After another hearty breakfast, I made my way to Bugrovo, an open-air museum near the Mikhailovskoye estate. There, you can learn about the life of peasants in the 18th century, walking among original wooden houses and buildings. I opted for a guided tour of the place. Next to the open-air museum, there is also a mill, where peasants used to grind grains. Inside the mill, I also had a private tour of the grinding process. The mill still operates on water current from the river Lugovka, which was very satisfying to watch. There are records of peasants mentioning their interactions with Pushkin and how he worked along with them in the mill and went back home covered in wheat chaff.

Top: a view of Bugrovo mansion depicting peasant life. Bottom left & right: wheat mill exposition and a creative sign located in the milling section of the mansion.
Top: a view of Bugrovo mansion depicting peasant life. Bottom left & right: wheat mill exposition and a creative sign located in the milling section of the mansion.
A view of Petrovskoye estate mansion from its front Garden
A view of Petrovskoye estate mansion from its front Garden

As the day progressed, I headed towards Petrovskoye, Pushkin's ancestral estate. This estate is significant as it is said to have influenced the history of Puksin’s family, the Russian state at the time, as well as Pushkin’s works. This estate can be called the gem of the museum reserve. The route to the mansion itself is covered with elk, birch, and oak trees. The mansion has been restored as per historic records and houses wooden toys, portraits, and personal effects. I wasn’t able to make it in time to enter the mansion and had to peek inside through the windows (if you, the reader, can make it there, I would love to hear from you about the arrangement inside the house).

Left: a pathway leading from Petrovskye estate gazebo towards the shore of lake Kuchane. Right: a view of the moon across a field of cattail plants during sunset.
Left: a pathway leading from Petrovskye estate gazebo towards the shore of lake Kuchane. Right: a view of the moon across a field of cattail plants during sunset.

Nevertheless, I took a peaceful walk around its park, with a pond and a flower garden. I also went to the gazebo located at the rear of the mansion to witness one of the most stunning sunsets with views over the surrounding areas, including the Mikhailovskoye estate and Savkin Hill that I saw the day before. I stood there until the sun hid behind the trees and started moving back towards the Tobolonets tour base. With dinner concluded, I sat around the bonfire listening to Russian songs and anecdotes as the breeze got steadily colder.

The windmill located on the banks of river Sorot near the Mikhailovskoye estate.
The windmill located on the banks of river Sorot near the Mikhailovskoye estate.

I boarded my bus back to St. Petersburg and was in the city around 05:30 am on Monday. The autumn views in Pushkinskiye Gory were truly unique, I did witness the season, the way Pushkin describes it, with the onset of winter close by.

Feel free to reach out to me via email ashish@ireddy.ru or peruse my work on Flickr.

PhD student at the Faculty of Digital Transformation, engineer at the National Center for Cognitive Research